Ted with Mili, our cool Turkish waiter, at the Globe Cafe.
The turning of leaves implies change; seasons change as summer's green glory gives way to autumn's crisp crimson and golden hues. The leaves of a book tell of adventures and trails conquered. And, as one chapter ends, another opens - beautiful, clean, new - blank to be written upon. For me, that is now. I am Turning Leaves.
Monday evening (the 27th) we saw Les Miserables. I have been intoxicated by the story and have known all the music since I was about 10, but I had never seen it live! My dad once described it as "life-changing." I was very moved by the performance. I felt a longing to contribute my life, death, and love to such a cause.
The first castle I saw was called "Cairnhill" or the "Buchanan" castle near Drymen. We nicknamed it "Ted's Castle" because Ted was brought there to recoup as a WWII soldier, straight after his service in Asia. It has special significance to him (and us) for that reason. It looks very different now! The owners burned off the roof in the 1950s to avoid paying a roof tax. Thus, it has fallen into ruin. It looks Romantic, don't you think? We snuck into the castle and explored it's overgrown beauties...moss grew everywhere and trees were rooted into its tumble-down towers. We toured around the whole thing--climbing up the dirt-packed staircases, peaking through silhouetted windows, and minding our steps carefully for fear of falling through the floor! It was exciting to wander all about this little-known sanctuary, uninhibited by tourists or tour-guides.
On our way to Carbisdale Castle (a youth hostel), we stopped in Alness to have dinner with Kate's aunt. Kate described her as the definition of a jolly Scottish woman, and she was ("I'm with three girls who don't drink?! Good L**d! What's to be done?!") She is a storyteller by profession and has that captivating, lilting Scottish voice. She made us traditional kedgeree for dinner (codfish, rice, currants, and hard-boiled eggs in a fish-curry sauce) and told us a Scottish folktale. Very fun.

This is the National Gallery at Trafalgar Square. It was my favorite museum! Although I appreciate modern art, I am more of a traditional art lover. This museum housed so many original texts it was staggering! I saw works by Reynolds, Monet, Manet, Valesquez, Van Gogh, Mattisse, van Eyck, David, Raphael, DaVinci, Turner, Degas, Michelangelo, Boticelli...all hard-hitters! It was sweet!